Milk: Pasteurised goat  
Origin: Poitou, France  
Style: Soft-ripened  

This week's featured Chabichou represents twelve centuries of Poitou cheesemaking excellence. The name itself tells history - derived from "cheblis," the Arabic word for goat, commemorating the Saracens who established the region's goat cheese tradition during their 8th-century occupation. When they retreated, their goats remained, forever changing French cheese.

The distinctive truncated cone shape - approximately 6 cm tall, wider at top than base - creates optimal conditions for moisture control during maturation. AOC regulations demand minimum 10 days ageing, though exceptional examples mature considerably longer. Each 150 g cylinder develops its signature wrinkled, brain-like rind pattern through natural dehydration and beneficial mould growth.

Flavour evolves dramatically from rind to centre: the creamy outer layer delivers immediate hazelnut sweetness and cultured butter notes, while the firm, chalky heart provides bright citrus tang and mineral freshness. Between these extremes lies the sweet spot - semi-firm paste balancing lemony brightness with emerging nuttiness. As it warms, fresh grass notes transform into honeyed hay, while the initially assertive tang mellows into gentle creaminess.

Perfect with crisp Loire whites - Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé showcase its complexity brilliantly. Serve at room temperature with walnut bread, local honey, and fresh pears for the complete Poitou experience.

Storage: Original wrapping at 8-10°C, optimal within 5-7 days

Milk: Pasteurised cow
Origin: Nottinghamshire, England
Style: Blue

Colston Bassett Dairy stands alone in the Stilton world - a cooperative since 1913, they're the smallest producer by far, crafting just 100 tonnes annually while industrial giants make thousands. This artisan scale allows uncompromising quality: milk from only four local farms arrives within hours of milking, maintaining freshness impossible at larger scales.

What sets Colston Bassett apart begins with technique: hand-ladling curds rather than mechanical handling creates their signature open texture. Restraint during piercing - the process introducing air for blue mould development - produces gentle veining rather than aggressive marbling. This allows the paste's inherent sweetness to shine alongside, not beneath, the blue notes.

The ivory-to-butter-yellow paste crumbles beautifully yet melts with fudgy richness. Flavours unfold in layers: sweet cream and brown butter lead, followed by roasted walnuts and wildflower honey, while blue veins contribute mineral complexity and gentle spice without domination. The finish is long, balanced, almost wine-like in its complexity.

Temperature matters enormously - too cold mutes its subtlety, too warm loses structure. Aim for cool room temperature. Traditional pairing remains vintage Port, though Sauternes creates magic, and aged Tawny offers butterscotch harmony. Serve with oatcakes, quince paste, and walnuts.

Storage: Wrapped in wax paper at 8-10°C, rewrap after each use

180 g

Milk: Pasteurised cow  
Origin: Champagne, France  
Style: Washed-rind  

Langres' signature sunken top forms because it's never flipped during maturation - a unique tradition creating the perfect well for marc de Champagne. Laurent Mons ages these wheels in his caves until they achieve perfect ripeness: sticky orange rind from repeated brine washing, creamy paste threatening to collapse.

What most miss: the flavour transforms dramatically from cold to room temperature. Initially mild, it explodes into bacon fat richness, forest floor earthiness, and fermented fruit notes when properly tempered. The texture becomes spoonable beneath that wrinkled, sunset-coloured rind. Intimidating aromatics—think farmyard after rain—give way to surprisingly delicate, savoury complexity. Phenomenal with Champagne or Burgundy.

150 g

Milk: Pasteurised goat  
Origin: Deux-Sèvres, France  
Style: Soft-ripened  

Dusted with fine vegetable ash, this romantic, heart-shaped treasure embodies French chèvre artistry. Laurent Mons selects these 150g beauties at the ideal moment - when the paste beneath the ash-dusted rind shows perfect textural contrast: creamy edges gradually firming toward a dense, chalky centre.

What most don't realise: the ash isn't decorative - it neutralises surface acidity, encouraging proper rind development while adding subtle mineral notes. Fresh and citrusy when young, it develops remarkable complexity over time: lemon zest mellows into roasted hazelnuts, while grassy notes evolve into hay sweetness. The texture transforms from firm to flowing at room temperature. Magnificent with Sancerre.